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Dress Shoes > Dress Shoes > Whats in a quality shoe

What's in a quality shoe

What to look for in a Quality Shoe

Before you buy your dress shoes. Do you know the difference between a quality shoe and a cheap imitation?

Quality of Leather in the Upper

Quality shoes are all made from Calf leather. If you can't see the grain in the leather it has most likely been treated. Usually it is mature hides that require treating. Calf leather is usually much thinner or at least much more supple.

Quality of leather sole

If the sole isn't leather, is it stitched? If not it is doubtful that it is goodyear welted. Be aware sometimes the stitching is hidden beneath a thin skin of leather that rubs off in the first few days of wearing referred to as Channel stitching. Leather soles come in a variety of qualities. The Cheapest will act like a sponge, soak up water and disintegrate very quickly. A high quality leather sole is hard to distinguish - but it would usually be found on a goodyear welted shoe.

Just because the leather is thick doesn't mean it'll last longer. The best soles have been ground away for ages with special machines. If they grain is rough or looks very porous don't go near them.

Craftsmanship

Is the shoe elegantlt shaped? or is it heavy and clumpy? Are there loose threads hanging off, or little rough edges of leather on the edge of the sole. Is the shoe fully leather lined? Some toe areas are (sensibly) made of canvas to allow toes to sweat a little, while others are fully leather lined - your choice. Are the stitches neat, small and in straight lines not wandering around. Are the edges of the cut leather smooth curves or ragged. These are all signs of the quality of craftmanship in shoe-making.